| MOUNT
KAILASH
Without doubt the holiest mountain
in the Himalaya. Mount Kailash, 22,028ft/6,714m is situated
to the north of the Himalayan barrier, wholly within
Tibet. It is the perfect mountain shape, with four great
faces; the eastern face is believed to be the crystal,
the western ruby, the southern sapphire and the northern
gold. It is the spiritual centre for four great religions
Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism, Jain religion and the pre-Buddhist
animistic religion Bonpo. To Tibetans it is known as
Khang Rinpoche (Precious jewel of snow) and they see
it as the navel of the world. It is said that a stream
from the mountain pours into a nearby lake and from
here rivers flow in the four cardinal directions.
The river of the Lion Mouth to the
north, the river to the Horse Mouth to the east, the
river to the Peacock Mouth to the south and the river
to the Elephant Mouth to the west. Strangely enough,
four major rivers do indeed originate near Kailash –
the Indus, the Yarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra), the Karnali
and the Sutlej. Tibetans believe that it is the residence
of Demchog, a fierce-looking tantric deity, who lives
there with his consort, Dorje Phamgo. For the Tibetans
also it is a particularly special place in that their
poet saint, Milarepa spent several years here meditating
in caves.
The circumambulation of Mount Kailash
is an important pilgrimage for Hindus, Buddhists and
Jains. Hindus perform a Prikama, Buddhists call it a
Kora. Buddhists believe that a single kora washes away
all the sins of one life and 108 circuits secure Nirvana
in this life. Devout Tibetans often make the 52km circuit
in a single day. Indian pilgrims make the circuit in
three days, but this also is rushed, particularly since
the circuit, though mostly level, involves the crossing
of a 5,630m/ 18,471ft pass. A four-day trek is far more
enjoyable and rewarding. An agreement between China
and India allows 350 Indians per year to make the pilgrimage
to Manasarovar and Kailash. The trip is so important
to Hindus that the trips are over-subscribed and the
quota is filled by lottery. They trek for nine days
through India in order to reach Taklakot.
Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims make a
clockwise circuit of the peak. Bon-Po tradition is to
circumbulate in the opposite direction. As you circle
Kailash via the traditional route, you will meet followers
of Bon-Po making a Kora in the opposite direction.
The most pious of the pilgrims are
those who prostate themselves around Kailash, lying
flat on the ground then rising, walking to the point
that their hands touched and repeating the process.
It is an awesome spectacle to meet a group of pilgrims
performing this feat.
There is also an ‘inner kora’
that passes two small lakes to the South of Kailash.
Tradition dictates that only those who made 13 circumbulations
of Kailash may follow this inner route or it is also
possible if you have completed an Outer kors in the
Horse year (last one was 2002) as this is equivalent
to 13 koras in any other year!.
For Hindus, Mount Kailash is the earthly
manifestation of Mt. Meru, the spiritual centre of their
universe, described as a fantastic ‘world pillar’
84,000 miles high, around which all else revolves, its
roots in the lowest hell and its summit kissing the
heavens. On top lives their most revered god, Shiva
and his consort, Parvati.
For the Jains, an Indian religious
group, Kailash is the site where their first prophet
got enlightened. For the older, more ancient religion
of Bon, it is the site where its founder Shenrab, is
said to have descended from heaven. It was formerly
the spiritual centre of Zhang Zung, the ancient Bon
Empire that once included all of western Tibet.
Over the centuries pilgrims have constantly
journeyed immense distances to get enlightened or cleanse
themselves of sin, braving enormous distances, particularly
harsh weather and bandit attacks.
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